Hunting for eel by bike

Je zal nog een paar keer denken aan de titel hierboven, terwijl je staat te wachten tot de veerman eindelijk jouw kant uitkomt. Tijdens deze fietsroute steek je maar liefst vier keer het water over met het veer. Je springt drie keer van Scheldeoever naar Scheldeoever – en ook de Durme moet je een keertje over.

This route lives up to its name!

But you can believe us when we tell you that the things you see during this trail are well worth the wait. Fabulous nature, stunning vistas across the water, lush green banks, an enchantingly beautiful castle and birds that fly and swoop over the water. 

The Paling route winds throughout its course along the banks of the Scheldt and is named after the culinary highlight in the area: eel. This unique fish is prepared in many different ways and numerous restaurants are famous for their tasty eel dishes. 

Can't wait until the end of your walk to try one? Then make a note of these great addresses on your map and stop on your way to enjoy a delicious plate of eel. Be sure to try Groenendijk in Weert, Scheldeoord, De Nieuwe Kreek and Taverne Drie Goten in Hamme. Brasserie De Veerman in Sint-Amands has also earned a reputation for its tasty eel recipes!

The longest bridge in the country

We start in Bornem, where you jump on your bike for a ride of 37 kilometres. It's no bother to park your car; free parking is provided! You see the famous Temse Bridge taking you – you guessed it – to Temse. For many years, this town had a flourishing ship-building industry, with Boelwerf as the jewel in the crown. 

Did you know that Temse Bridge, which connects East Flanders and Antwerp, is actually the longest bridge in the country? The bridge you see before you is new. The original model was designed by Gustave Eiffel, but was sadly destroyed in WWII.

Bornem Castle

Continue to Bornem, where you can see Marnix de Sainte Aldegonde Castle looming in the distance. It is built on a closed branch of the Scheldt and for centuries was owned by the noble family with the same name. 

Perhaps you have heard of Filip Marnix de Sainte Aldegonde, who is believed to be the composer of the Dutch national anthem. The locals just call it Bornem Castle. That makes life a little easier.

An exciting history

The castle has a rich history. It had several purposes over the ages and is now home to an exciting exhibition about the life of the alleged composer of the Wilhelmus. Actually, he never lived there himself.

Inside the building you can see countless treasures and admire the magnificent interior. You will be pretty impressed by the grandeur of the rooms within. Certainly well worth a visit!

The Scheldt as your trusty companion

As you cycle, you pass the pretty village of Weert, where you cross the Scheldt for the first time, towards Hamme. In Weert you can discover the quiet sanctuary – and don't forget the brasserie from our list of great eel addresses! In Hamme, admire the nature area Drie Goten, after which you continue your ride along the water until Moerzeke. Here you cross the Scheldt a second time, towards Mariekerke, as the centre of the Flemish eel trade. Every year in June, there is a Fish and Folklore celebration, and the Eel festival.

Via Sint-Amands (pedal past the grave of writer Emile Verhaeren, that lies beside the Scheldt. He has his own museum here too – certainly worth a visit!) you cycle all the way to Baasrode. Throughout the trip you take in the energising river air, and are soothed by the peaceful green banks. The view across the water is truly magnificent. On the other side, the nature area known as Groot Schoor stretches out and appears to wave with its majestic trees. And by the way, don't forget to stop at the provincial heritage site, the Shipyards in Baasrode,  one of the loveliest historical-industrial sites in Flanders.

Ride though fields and farmland

Ready for yet another crossing? This time, you go from Baasrode towards Kastel, until turning inland for a while in Moerzeke. You cross fields and farmland, riding gently along picturesque tracks criss-crossing the landscape. 

Only when you reach Hamme do you return to the water for the final crossing in your journey – this time, across the Durme. First, before reaching the ferry, you ride diagonally across the Durme marsh and scrub land. The area is stunningly beautiful with plenty of pools and marshy grassland. 

Wedged between Scheldt and polder

For the final kilometres the route is wedged between the Scheldt and Potpolder, an extended landscape that combines a thousand shades of green in a breathtaking vista. In the distance you can spot Temse. 

Just before arriving where you first started, you pass the former Boelwerf shipyard in Temse. This giant in the ship-building industry closed its doors decades ago. Today a new urban district is emerging: de Zaat. A collection of modern flats on the waterside, where life goes gently on. The only reminder of the industrial past is a monumental crane that can actually be visited.

Experience the Paling Route for yourself

The river landscape of Scheldeland appeals to everyone. This place puts the clocks on hold. Leave the stress to trickle away and feel your energy flow. Give it a try.